Brilon and Olsberg
She blends in with nature, if you don't know her, you won't find her: the Brilon forest fairy. And yet she is omnipresent in the extensive forests south of the Brilon plateau, and not just on her own forest fairy trail. Along Brilon's hiking trails, surprising installations await hikers in the dense forest: from medieval church ruins to modern art, from hard and steep rocky peaks to comfortable and soft relaxation spots.
Brilon - In the realm of the forest fairy
The open Brilon plateau to the north, Waldberg behind Waldberg to the south and the Bruchhauser Steine on the horizon - that's Brilon.
From above, you can see a sea of green - forest as far as the eye can see. This is the realm of the forest fairy. She must be there somewhere, the legendary creature. Every year, the people of Brilon choose a young woman from the town to be the forest fairy. For one year, she represents her home region at trade fairs, receptions and other official events. I arranged to meet her in an enchanted part of the forest. Above Altenbüren, a few rocks are completely hidden in the Unterholz. At first glance, it is impossible to recognize the forest fairy, her dress is so perfectly matched to the colors of the forest. It's a good thing I have some lighting equipment with me. So I can put her in the right light here in the forest - under the rock, in front of the rock, on the rock.
Our hike begins in Brilon Kurpark and first takes us along the landscape therapy trail towards Gudenhagen. Around a bend, a bright red wreath suddenly floats between the trees above a bench. The fairy wreath is one of those creative installations in the Brilon-Wald forests, of which Brilon has a particularly large number. "We make sure that there is always something new to discover on our hiking trails," says the forest fairy. A short time later, we are sitting at a crossroads with various junctions. Hikers should pause here and look for the right continuation of the Landscape Therapy Trail.
Even without the help of the forest fairy, I quickly find the right path and as we continue uphill, she tells me: "I particularly like the Brilon Kammweg. 49 km of certified hiking trail are just the thing for a long weekend. And there are so many great views from up there - and of course surprises, but I won't tell you about them. Hikers will have to discover them for themselves. And for those who don't want to walk quite so far, I have my own hiking trail. It's especially made for families with children."
After Gudenhagen, we come to her forest fairy trail. My companion balances happily over tree trunks that lie on top of each other like a game of Mikado. "If these really were fallen trees after a storm, what I'm doing here would be absolutely life-threatening. With storm wood, you never know what will happen. But the trunks here are firmly bolted together. The children can let off steam on this forest climbing frame." A little later, there's something for the parents. Two massage trees - a real forest fairy creation - a forest lounger and two hammocks offer wellness relaxation in the forest - pure peace and enjoyment. But there are also exciting things in the forest fairy's realm. Suddenly there is thunder and a cloud of dust rises above the trees: blasting in the nearby quarry. A nuisance for the forest fairy? "On the contrary," I learn. "Something really exciting for hikers is being created right on the edge of my kingdom." And she leads me into the turmoil.
The excavator shovel is so big that I could stand in it. The wheels of the truck that the excavator is filling are bigger than me. A huge cloud of dust rises from the loading area with a roar. Diabase is mined to the east of Brilon and processed into grit and gravel for road construction. The excavator driver points behind him with his thumb: "They have to go up there. That's the best vantage point in Brilon Land!" There's a bit of pride in this, because the quarry workers have created this vantage point. At the highest point of the former spoil tip, which has since been re-vegetated, five red pillars rise into the sky and mark the plateau from which hikers can see the entire Brilon municipality. New hiking trails and a mountain bike trail criss-cross the northern slope of the Bilsteinhalde, which has otherwise been reclaimed by nature. "Without the quarry, there would be no 360º panoramic view in my kingdom," enthuses the forest fairy, turning between the boards that creatively describe the view peak by peak.
Klaus-Peter Kappe
For thousands of years, people have felt the power of special places in the forests around Olsberg. For the Celts, the Bruchhauser Steine were perhaps both a sanctuary and a refuge. To this day, they are outstanding as a hiking destination, and quite literally so, because no other Sauerland rock towers so far above the trees. In the Middle Ages, people made pilgrimages to the church on the Borberg and today the Kneipp hiking trail runs through the woods at its foot.
Olsberg - nature - healing - power
Olsberg is one of the oldest Kneipp health resorts in Germany, but the healing power of nature - especially between Borberg and Istenberg - was perhaps already felt by the Celts.
"Olsberg has been a Kneipp health resort for over 120 years. The old priest Sebastian Kneipp was still living in Wörishofen," Gudrun Hagemeister tells me. Together with her daughter Silke, she works here as a Kneipp therapist and hiking guide. We climb up to the Borberg via the special Kneipp hiking trail. It is a hot summer's day. The soft forest path leads us steeply up the mountain through old Buchenwald forests, but suddenly an icy cold breeze brushes against me. It comes from the open mouth of the Waxstollen tunnel. Today, only bats live in the old iron ore mine. The breeze blowing towards us at the entrance has a constant temperature of 8º C all year round. The clear water coming out of the tunnel is the same temperature.
"Water is probably the best known of the five elements of Sebastian Kneipp's healing method," Silke Hagemeister explains to me, "and we can find all five elements here on the Kneipp hiking trail. There is actually water everywhere. We have created treading pools in the most beautiful places. Here at the spring in front of the Waxstollen, we offer arm casts according to Kneipp's rules during our guided hikes."
After a steep path ascent, we enjoy the view of the valleys around Elleringhausen from a forest lounger. A wide forest aisle makes it possible. Gudrun Hagemeister takes a book out of her rucksack and shows me how many medicinal herbs can be found around the forest lounger alone. Medicinal herbs are another element of Kneipp's teachings.
As we walk on, we take off our shoes and socks. "We're going to walk barefoot for a while. The next Kneipp element is called movement. And when we move, we want to feel nature directly. That's why we've created a barefoot path here." We can then wash our feet in the next treading pool. Only drying off is not allowed. According to Kneipp's teachings, the body has to do this itself. On a hot day like today, that's great.
At the next rest stop, we talk about nutrition, the next element of Kneipp. Some of the inns in Olsberg specialize in the special, healthy diet that Kneipp designed. If you want to go hiking, you can also get suitable packed lunches there.
Finally, we stand in front of the church ruins in Borberg's churchyard and Gudrun Hagemeister tells us: "The Celts came to this area over 2000 years ago. There was one of their castles here and perhaps another one over on the Istenberg between the Bruchhauser Steine. They already felt the healing effects of these places of power. Later, churches were built in the forests, and today we at least still have chapels. No matter what you understand by spirituality and what religion you belong to, everyone will discover their own personal place of power somewhere here that will lead them to inner balance. That is the fifth element of Kneipp, balance."
We need outer balance on the very last part of our walk: up to the Feldstein. It may not be the highest rock in the series of Bruchhauser Steine, but as it lies on the summit of the Istenberg, its peak forms the highest point of the mountain. The ascent is really alpine. We have to use our hands to help us. I really have to climb between the rock faces to get the best photo angles. And then we're standing next to the summit cross. What a panorama! There really is something to see here. The Bruchhausen moated castle, for example, is literally at our feet.
The Feldstein on the Istenberg not only offers a great view, but is also probably the oldest place of power in the Sauerland, which people have been visiting for at least two millennia.