Hallenberg Unterkirche

Hallenberg (51.108746 | 8.624826)

Feminine elemental power

Pilgrimage church of the Assumption of the Virgin Mary from the 12th century with the miraculous image of 'Our Lady of Merklinghausen'.

Hallenberg, only around 4500 inhabitants, but with town rights, nestled in the eastern foothills of the Rothaargebirge. A constant bone of contention between princes and bishops in the course of its eventful history, it is still a border town with Hessen today. I look for a birthplace: that of the town itself. Surprisingly, I don't find it in the magnificent 13th century parish church that dominates the center of Hallenberg. Instead, it's down below, at the south-eastern exit of the town, right next to the busy main road.

This is where the much smaller Church of the Assumption of the Virgin Mary is located. The people of Hallenberg call it "the Unterkirche". As I enter and close the low wooden door behind me, the noise of the cars suddenly stops. Even the sun seems to want to stay outside. I am surrounded by a pleasant coolness and dim light. The windows are tiny. My eyes slowly adjust. Earth-colored frescoes become visible on the walls and in the vaulted ceiling; they have only been partially restored. They are the main decoration of the Unterkirche. It has a homely feel and conveys a sense of security, unlike other sacred buildings, which are intended to teach the faithful reverence but also intimidate them: Here you are, little mortal man, unworthy and small! I feel protected under the low ceiling and between the massive round arches. The church really does have something maternal about it.

Its oldest part was built more than 1000 years ago. Baroque splendor is completely absent. My gaze is magically drawn to the statue of the Virgin Mary behind the altar. She wears a purple cloak and a diamond-studded cross. Protection and abundance. She is seated, only 63 cm high and yet dominates the entire room. "Our Lady of Merklinghausen" has a different aura than I am used to from Madonnas. Most of them look neutral or serious. This one is smiling. The divine child on her arm also looks quietly amused. The statue has been worshipped for hundreds of years and her smile attracts hundreds of pilgrims every year in August. They ask for comfort, protection and forgiveness. Healings have been reported, although not proven. The church has a firm place in the life of the town and is one of the attractions on guided tours. My local guide Edeltraud Müller says that the people of Hallenberg are particularly generous when donations are requested for the Unterkirche.

During a tour, when the aim was to get a feel for the spiritual qualities of the church, the participants gave free rein to their thoughts, as was the method. Some also had associations with the church of female power and childbirth, of the uterus and the womb. I asked Ms. Müller whether such an association did not alienate her - a church as a womb? She smiles and thinks for a while. Then she says: "It's true: this is a birthplace. Where the church stands, there was once the village of Merklinghausen. It fell into desolation, in other words was abandoned. All that remained of it was the church, and it became the origin of Hallenberg.

Author: Michael Gleich